The more things change, the more they stay the same!

The more things change, the more they stay the same…..and how true this is.

The art of working metals and working with metals is as old as the world one can only imagine. Yet not much has changed over the years, decades and centuries. Man may have made the basic tools more comfortable to handle and sophisticated machines may now exist, but the basics are pretty much the same.

It is not often we are reminded of this and it is not often we see how the basic techniques and tools can work the metal and turn it into beautiful pieces of adornment or objects of use or decoration.

The below enchanting little movie reminds us of just this. The  Tuareg man in the movie is quite inspirational in himself.

http://www.tuaregjewelry.com/home.php

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Bling at the Met 2012

Last night saw everyone who is anyone gather at the annual New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art for the 2012 Costume Institute Gala.

While there was some predictability (many guests chose to wear Prada in honour of one of the night’s honourees – Miuccia Prada) and a healthy dose of surprises no doubt, what had us excited was the jewellery of course.

Here are some of our favourites.

Doutzen Kroes looking stunning in Bochic earrings

Camilla Belle wearing Fred Leighton earrings.

Karolina Kurkova was literally draped in vintage platinum and diamonds courtesy of Fred Leighton.

Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in Irene Neuwirth earrings

Gwyneth Paltrow in a dreamcatcher style Anna Hu Haute Joaillerie earrings

…and while earrings seemed to be the show stoppers of the night, there were a couple of necklaces that one couldn’t help but notice

January Jones in a gorgeous vintage Cartier necklace

Rachel Zoe in a stunning David Webb necklace

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Red Carpet Season Kicks off this Weekend, be prepared for Glitz and Bling

On Sunday the 15th of January, the major awards season kicks off with the Golden Globes in Los Angeles, followed by the BAFTA Film Awards on February 12th in London, then back to Los Angeles for the Academy Awards, the Oscars, on February 26th.  Gorgeous women in beautiful gowns and stunning jewellery should grace all of the Red Carpets … perhaps with bodyguards nearby.

Wouldn’t it be fascinating if one of the stylists had access to jewels purchased from Elizabeth Taylor’s estate this December? The auction at Christie’s in New York was all that anyone in the fashion and fine jewellery world could speak and tweet about this Christmas season. Wouldn’t Sofia Vergara be the woman who could carry off any piece of jewellery that Dame Elizabeth wore?

Sofia is nominated for Best Performance by an Actress in a Supporting Role in a Series, Mini-Series or Motion Picture made for Television for her role in the US  TV sit-com ‘Modern Family’.  She is a fabulous actress who plays a character that some might refer to as a ‘bimbo’, but her intelligence shines through her antics and her character is often  the most compassionate and interesting individual in each episode.

Sofia is definitely an ‘earring woman’

She wore a stunning pair at last year’s Golden Globes:

Sofia Vergara at Golden Globes February 2011

These gorgeous Diamond Ear Pendants, that were a gift from Mike Todd to Elizabeth Taylor in 1957, would look absolutely brilliant on Ms Vergara–award worthy for certain !

There are 35 actresses nominated for Sunday’s event so watch out for lots of beauty, baubles and beaming smiles!

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January Industry News: the Gem Awards in New York City

The Gem Awards Honorees were announced in New York on January 6th. The organization, the JIC (Jewelry Information Center) honors individuals in the following categories:

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT

Ralph Destino

Ralph Destino is a larger-than-life individual who has had a dynamic 32 year career with Cartier and continues to contribute to the Jewelry Industry.

CORPORATE COMMUNICATIONS

Chanel Fine Jewelry

JOURNALISTIC EXCELLENCE

Candy Pratts-Price

Fashionista extraordinaire who was always focused on accessories, Fine Jewelry and Watches. She is currently the Editor-at-Large of Vogue.com.

JEWELRY STYLE

The Honorable Daphne Guinness

Need we say more about this fabulous iconoclast?

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January Birthstone – Garnet- a Succulent Pomegranate Seed

We are back, in 2012, and kicking off the year with the birthstone for January.

‘Granatus’ is the Latin word for ‘grain’ or ‘seed’ and has been used to name this deep red stone, first mined in Sri Lanka over 2,500 years ago.

Pomegranate

The Red Garnet

The image of the sensual pomegranate has been consistently highlighted by great artists through out the ages. Botticelli depicted the fruit in the detail of ‘The Madonna of the Pomegranate’, circa 1487, in the Uffizi Gallery collection in Florence, Italy.

The Madonna of the Pomegranate

Archaeologists have found jewellery made with garnets in digs that researched antiquity as far back as the Bronze age and almost every era of history has utilized the garnet in jewellery and decorations.

Cameo Garnet with Mask of Tragedy

Edwardian Garnet Necklace

There are thousands of legends and myths surrounding the garnet. One story from the Bible relates Noah’s use of the gem on the ark to light his way through stormy nights and a Greek myth links the garnet to Persephone and her return from the underworld by accepting pomegranate seeds from Hades, who believed the beautiful, glowing kernels of fruit would eventually return her to him.

Close-up of Bernini's sculpture of Persephone in the Borghese Gallery in Rome

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Ohh……Carnet!

This month sees a rare gem of an exhibition – such rare gems to be seen and so short and exhibit, that if one blinked – one will miss it. Asia House in London is the discreet host of a retrospective exhibition of Carnet jewellery, designed masterfully by Michelle Ong.

One doesn’t often come across any publicity of Carnet jewellery, nor its designer. But what is known is that she was born in Hong Kong. She served a diamond apprenticeship in the diamond industry but never properly trained  in design. Like many before her, she started initially designing and having jewellery made for herself, as she wasn’t able to find what she wanted to wear. Sometime after, she joined forces in business partnership with a precious stones dealer – Avi Nagar and together they established Carnet in 1985. Having an endless choice of the best of the best gems and a structure to work within enabled Ms Ong to unleash her imagination and express her individual, inspired and innovative creative vision. As her creations gathered international attention and acclaim, the partners opened an atelier in Hong Kong in 2003 and it soon became a destination of choice for sophisticated collectors from around the world.

If you are in London, don’t miss the exhibition ( Asia House from 15-24th Sept 2011). Some 180 pieces are exhibited. Arranged thematically and ranging from broaches to rings and jaw dropping necklaces, watches and bracelets. The quality of the stones and diamonds used is unrivalled, the explosion of colour – overpowering and the perfection of execution and artistry – simply mesmerising.

But if you can’t make it, below is a taste of what all the fuss is about….

Pear broach with intense and vivid white, yellow and brown diamonds, set in gold and platinum

Diamond Necklace set in gold and platinum

Rubellite tourmaline, sapphire and diamond pendant necklace, set in platinum and gold

Imperial jade, blackened silver and black diamonds

Black lace cuffs with diamonds set in blackened gold

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September Birthstone – Sapphire – The Royal Gem

Natural Untreated Oval Sapphire

The name “Sapphire” originates like most stones from the greek word “sappheiros” meaning “blue stone” and once upon a time it was applied to various stones with Blue colour. Later on, in the antiquity and Middle ages, the name was applied to what today is known as “lapis lazuli”. But it wasn’t until the 1800 when it was established and recognised that the Sapphire and Ruby stones belong to the same Corundum family. At first only the blue variety of the corundum was refereed to as sapphire, the red as ruby and all other colours had various names. But later on, all colour varieties except red (reffered to as ruby) were recognised as sapphires and to this day identified as such.

decï Bon Bon multicolour sapphire necklace

decï Bon Bon multicolour sapphire necklace

The many colours this stone comes in is due to the various colouring agents found in their chemical structure. Out of all colours the cornflower blue is most prized and sought after. Its colour is due to the presence of titanium in its composition.

Sapphire is one of the four precious stones, well known and revered around the world for their beauty as well as mystery. In many ancient cultures, the sapphire was thought to bring magic and good luck, be the antidote to poison and to have the power to influence the spirits. The Persians believed that blue sapphiers were chips from a huge pedestal that supported the earth, the reflections of which coloured the night sky. Throughout the Bible there are many references to the stone  too. In the western world on the other hand, many consider this stone in its classic blue colour as the best choice stone to have set next to diamonds, especially where engagement rings were concerned.

Sapphires are mined mainly from alluvial deposits or deposits formed by weathering, rarely from the primary rock. Compared to other stones, mining sapphires is relatively easy. The underground gem bearing layer is worked form hand dug holes and trenches. The separation of sand, clay and gravel is done by washing out the gemstones due to their higher density. Final selection is done by hand. While this stone is found in many locations around the world, the main important sapphire deposits are found in Sri Lanka ( known as Ceylon sapphires), Kashmir, Myanmar, Thailand and Africa.

Sapphire mining in Sri Lanka

The sapphire is very strong and durable stone, the hardest after the Diamond and like the diamond it can be used as industrial abrasive. This means that these stones have good longevity, making them ideal for jewellery that will take a lot of wear and tear over many years.

Most large, fine sapphires are oval, emerald or cushion cut, while smaller stones can be found in greater variety of colours.

Very large sapphire stones are rare and therefore often like diamonds they are given names. Notable stones that can be found in Museums are “The Star of India”,  perhaps the largest cut star sapphire, 536ct and the “Midnight Star” – a 116ct lack stone, both owned by the American Museum of Natural History, NY. The “Star of Asia” is 330ct stone owned by the Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC.

The Stuart Sapphire

The Stuart Sapphire

Sapphires have also for over a thousand years been associated with Royalty. The English Royal crown has two famous stones – St Edward’s and the Stuart sapphires. The perfectly turned out Mrs Simpson received many amazing gems from Edward VIII, but it was sapphires that she maintained was her favourite stone. So favorite that one particular sapphire bracelet she owned, designed by Van Cleef and Arpels was the reason she asked her tailors to shorted the sleeves on all her dresses and blouses so that everyone can admire it.

Princes Diana's Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring

Princes Diana's Sapphire and Diamond Engagement Ring

And of course there is the famous engagement ring given to Princess Diana by Prince Charles, now famously passed down a generation to Kate by Prince William.

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August Birthstone – Peridot – The Emerald of the Evening

The Peridot stone with its summery golden green colours is a perfect stone for the month of August.

Peridot Gemstone

Peridot Gemstone

The peridot is one of the few gemstones which come in one colour only. It colour ranges from rich bottle green with a slight tinge of gold to an almost yellowish,brownish olive oil colour.  Unlike most gems which receive their colours from impurities found within their structure, the peridot’s colour is caused by very fine traces of iron. From a chemical point of view, peridot is an iron magnesium silicate. The intensity of the colour depends on the amount of iron actually present.  Peridot is not particularly hard – only 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale – but it is easy to look after and fairly robust. Peridot cat’s eyes and star peridot are particularly rare and precious.

The peridot is cut in accordance with its crystal shape, mostly faceted or in classical table cuts, or round, antique, as an octahedron or oval. Smaller crystals are cut into standardised series stones, larger ones into imaginative one-offs. Cabochons are made if the material contains more inclusions, for the domed cut brings out the fine silky shine of the inclusions to their best.

The cutters know full well that this gemstone is anything but easy to work with. The raw crystals can be very tricky, as this is a brittle gemstone with a strong cleavage.  There is often a good deal of tension on the inside of the crystal. But once the cutter has succeeded in removing the coarser inclusions, the peridot is a precious stone with good wearing qualities which does not call for any special care.

This gemstone has no fewer than three names: ‘peridot’, ‘chrysolite’, from the Greek ‘gold stone’, and ‘olivine’, for the peridot is the gemstone form of the mineral olivine. This stone is believed to have been mined as a gemstone for over 4000 years and is mentioned in the Bible under its original name of “chrysolite” (see Exodus 28:20, Song of Solomon 5:14, Revelations 21:20).

This stone is so ancient that it can be found in Egyptian jewellery from the early 2nd millennium B.C.. The stones used at that time came from a deposit on a small volcanic island in the Red Sea, some 45 miles off the Egyptian coast at Aswan. Back then the egyptian miners only mined the stone at night, as they believed the gem was invisible in the daylight. But as it was believed the gem had the ability to absorb the sun’s rays it had the ability to glow in the dark and hence it was easier to discover in the nighttime.

Far away from Egypt, on a tiny island off Hawai called Oahu, the beach is coloured green due to small grains of peridot found in the sand. Locals there believe the small grains are the tears of the Goddess Pele and small stones (mostly imported from Arizona, as there is no mining on the island for peridot) are sold to tourists.

The ancient Romans too were fond of this gemstone and esteemed its radiant green shine, which does not change even in artificial light. For that reason they nicknamed it the ‘emerald of the evening’. Peridot is also found in Europe in medieval churches, where it adorns many a treasure.

Mining of this stone over the centuries has taken place in China, Brazil, Australia, Norway among others. Stones from East Burma, now known as Myanmar, have a vivid light green and fine inclusions with a silky shine to them. Peridot from Arizona, where it is popularly used in native American jewellery, often has somewhat yellowish or gold-brown nuances.

Peridot deposits found in raw state

Peridot deposits found in raw state

However, sensationally rich deposit of the finest peridots had been found in 1994  in the Kashmir region, in Pakistan. Located some 15 000 feet above sea level in the ice-capped mountains of the Himalayas lies the remote and often inaccessible Peridot Mines. To get there is not for the faint hearted. From the nearest town you need to ride for approximately 10 hours, then set of on a two to three days climb before you reach the mines. And that is if the weather allows for it. For this reasons, the mines are only operated in the summer months between July and September. However, it may be these hard conditions to thank, for the peridot found in this location is  incomparably beautiful in colour and transparency.

In order to emphasise the special quality of the peridots from Pakistan, these stones are offered as ‘Kashmir peridots’, following the famous Kashmir sapphires. Creative gemstone cutters have succeeded in cutting some fascinatingly beautiful one-off stones of more than 100 carats from some of the large, fine, clear crystals with their magnificent rich green.

In myths and legends, the peridot is associated with luck and warding off evil spirits. In many cultures it was believed that if the stone was set in precious metal, the capacity to bring the bearer luck and good fortune intensified even more. Hence many goblets, sword handles and  other artifacts belonging to the rich and powerful aristocracy were encrusted with Peridots.

Today the stone is mostly cherished and appreciated by people for its beauty, though maybe less so for its powers.

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The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels

Van Cleef & Arpels opened doors at Place Vendôme in Paris in 1906. Since then it has built a reputation as a leading jewellery brand in style and design innovation. Its timeless pieces have been worn by many style icons among whom were the Duchess of Windsor, Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor.

To celebrate the brand, its heritage and mastership, the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York is showing an exhibition comprising of over 250 pieces of original jewellery.

The exhibition runs until 4th July.  But if you cannot make it on time (like us), here is a snippet of what we have missed out on…watch the video by TheLookNow.com featuring editor Harriet Mays Powell

The video is curtesy of NMDaily.com

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I spy with my little eye……Emeralds

Emerald  jewellery has always been popular. From the days when Cleopatra had an exclusivity on this stone, through the centuries when Emeralds were only worn by Kings and Queens and countless Maharajahs, Sultans, Sheikhs….. one cannot help but get the message – Emeralds were then, are now and without a doubt will continue to be exclusive and desired. And more than any other stone they make a statement. Wearing Emeralds is not for the shy and retiring.

So here is a glimpse of a few ladies who knew how to make a statement with a little help from their green friends.

Elizabeth Taylor wearing diamonds and emeralds. These Bulgari jewels were one of the many gifts made to her by Richard Burton. Image courtesy of Bulgari. Credit, Getty Images.

Princess Diana often wore her jewelry in unconventional ways. Here she is wearing the Cambridge Emerald Choker Necklace as a headband.

That same necklace worn as it was intended to be worn. The famous chocker was a wedding gift from Queen Elizabeth, and was originally owned by Queen Mary.

Angelina Jolie at the Oscars in 2009. This unforgettable image alone re-ignited a trend for wearing Emeralds.....in a big way.

Julianne Moore in Bulgari, 2010

and last but not least, the girl of the moment

Blake Lively in Emeralds and Channel, 2011


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